Air Conditioners

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• Is the air-conditioner otherwise not working? See above.
• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting or cold setting on electronic controller? Is the compressor motor running?
• The compressor may not be seen. It is located inside the air-conditioner at the center. Is it humming or making any kind of continuous noise or causing the lights to dim? If it is making a continuous noise, and your air-conditioner is still not cooling, there may be a problem with one or more of the parts like Compressor, Condenser or Evaporator.
• If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the air-conditioner there may be a problem in one or more of the parts like Compressor, Overload and/or relay, Thermostat (Open thermostat), Burnt wiring, Bad selector switch, Capacitor or Electronic controller.
• These parts are not user serviceable

• If the air doesn't seem to be adequately cool it is necessary to use a thermometer to check the difference in temperature between the supply air going away from the air-conditioner and the air being returned from the room. Normally, the temperature difference should be more than 10℃. For example, if the temperature going into the air conditioner is 26℃, the temperature coming out of the air-conditioner should be at least 16℃ or less. If the difference is 12℃ or more there is probably no cause for concern. If the temperature difference is less than 10℃ you should check:
• Air Ventilation Check to make sure the air ventilation is closed. If it's open, it will bring in outside air and reduce the efficiency of the unit.
• Condensing coils
• The condensing coils will always be on the "warm" side of the air-conditioner. That is, on the side that faces outside of the room to be cooled. Air is drawn into the back of the air conditioner on the sides through vent slots and is blown directly out through the condenser coils. If the coils get clogged with lint, dust and dirt the cooling system cannot provide the cooling necessary. To clean the coils it will be necessary to remove the entire cover of the air conditioner or pull it out of the wall to gain access to the coils. They can be cleaned by blowing compressed air at them or by using a soft bristle brush to wipe the dirt off. It is important to also clean any dirt or lint build-up in the bottom of the air conditioner so the condensing fan slinger will pick up the condensate water properly.

• All window air-conditioners remove moisture from the air if there is, any. The window air-conditioners collect this moisture in the drain tray of the air-conditioner placed at the bottom and attempt to evaporate the moisture. The evaporation process: Initially, the water drips down from the cold evaporator coils on the front of the air-conditioner. Then the water collects in the bottom of the air-conditioner base, the "pan."
• If the air conditioner is installed properly it will be tilted slightly back. The water then collects near the back of the unit. The fan blade used to cool the rear condensing coils have a rim on the outside of the fins of the blade, called "slinger," will come close to touching the inside of the drain pan when the fan is rotating. As the water collects in the pan and reaches the depth necessary for the fan ring to touch it, the ring will lift the water up, partly and the fan will splash it over the condensing coils. Because the coils are warm, they will evaporate the moisture to the outside.
• While this is happening it is normal to hear water splashing and sloshing around. As long as there is no water leaking inside the room that is being cooled there is no cause for concern.
  Do not drill into the bottom of and air-conditioner to "let the water out."

• Every air conditioner has a motor inside a compressor. The compressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner. If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective the compressor may try to start, fail, and create an electrical overload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressor circuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. The safety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for a certain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it will allow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If the compressor then starts, the air-conditioner should function normally.
• If the compressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overload will again cut the power to the compressor. This cyclic event will continue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes before restarting the compressor.) If this situation is happening, unplug the air-conditioner and get help from a qualified appliance repair technician to repair the air-conditioner at the SmartCare center. This problem is often fatal to the air conditioner because the cost of repair often high.

• Every air-conditioner is equipped with minimum two motors, the compressor-motor and the fan motor. It is possible for the fan motor to be defective and the compressor to be running. In this case the air-conditioner will come out to be running and may even sound "normal" but no air is blowing out the front or back of the unit. If, after removing the grill and other metallic parts of the air-conditioner you observe the fan blade is jammed / very rigid; difficult to rotate, the fan motor need to be replaced. If the fan blade turns freely the wiring/harness of the fan motor will need attention. It will be better to call a qualified technician to find-out the cause of the problem, which could be with either the capacitor or the selector switch or the motor itself.

• The compressor in all window air conditioners has a powerful motor. When it starts up and shuts off - the whole air conditioner can vibrate/shake, sometimes little loudly. Usually there is nothing wrong but it is possible that the compressor mounting bushes are worn out or missing; calling for replacement. If that is the case the mountings can sometimes be replaced.
• Be sure that the air conditioner is securely mounted in the window frame if the air-conditioner vibrates/shakes.

• It is normal for water to collect in the lower base of an air conditioner. See the note under: " Little water dropping around inside room." If water leaks out the front it is usually because the unit is tilted forward in the window frame. All air conditioners should be installed carefully to ensure that they tilt slightly back to allow for proper removal of the condensate.

• Air conditioners remove moisture from the air. The water collects in the base of the unit. Under normal conditions this water will be evaporated out of the unit. However, it is possible for some water to sit stagnant in the base of the air conditioner for extended periods of time. There is no easy way to prevent this problem. The problem will be reduced if you carefully clean the base of the inside of the air conditioner at least once a year. That will keep any dirt, lint or dust from absorbing the water and allowing mold and mildew to grow. Also, replace the filter behind or in the front cover.

• You can run the air conditioner as long as both the outside and inside temperatures are above 16℃. If either of the temperatures is too cold, the air-conditioner may not function properly.

• The capacity of air-conditioner depends on volume of each room to be cooled and its heatload. The cooling capacity of an air conditioner is measured in kilo Calories kCal/hr or British Thermal Units (BTU/hr). If you purchase an air conditioner that is too small for the room it will not cool adequately, also if you buy the one that is too large, the air conditioner will cool the room before it dehumidifies that may give you feeling of sweaty. So, get this calculated before purchasing the air-conditioner.

• First, check the batteries of the remote controller. Even if the screen is visible but faded the batteries may be compromising system operation. Good alkaline AAA batteries (2 nos) are required for the unit to function properly. We recommend you DO NOT use rechargeable batteries, standard, or low priced bulk buy batteries in I-Sense remotes. Batteries should be changed at least once every six months even if the appliance is not used, or when the display fades if less than six months.
• Secondly, check that the remote is in a direction that the I-Sense infrared link can communicate with the indoor unit, till the time air-conditioner is running. If not, then move it to a position where it can and press appropriate button on remote controller. When the indoor unit beeps each time you press a button on the remote, then it is in a good condition. The system WILL NOT function properly as expected if the remote is in a drawer/ cupboard, under an object or in between cushions on a sofa set etc.

• The display on the remote could be inaccurate as it is only indicative. This will not harm the performance of the system; it means you need to use the remote as an indication only. If the room feels cold when you're heating increase the temperature a degree or two, and wait 5-10 minutes for the air-conditioner to raise the temperature. Repeat the exercise until room temperature is in a comfortable zone. NOTE: The remote may indicate a 2℃ variation.

• Contacting Godrej SmartCare Customer Service is easy. You will find all our contact details on the website (branch-wise), the user manual, or you may call our 24 x 7 phone toll free line, 1800-225511 for assistance.

• The EER, an abbreviation of Energy-Efficiency Ratio, measures the air conditioner's energy consumption and efficiency. It is a ratio of thermal energy to electrical energy. A high EER ratio means less electrical energy is being consumed that further means more money savings.

• Godrej air-conditioner is warranted for 1year and has Protection Plan limited to its compressor that gives coverage for next 4 years. Thus the compressor is warranted for 5 years.

• You should keep the air-filter clean so that maximum cooling capacity and efficiency is ensured. During peak usage times the filter should be inspected once a week to make sure that it is not clogged with dust, fiber etc.

• Normally the room air-conditioners are of two types - Window and Split. Select models of the Godrej air-conditioners are of window type which can be installed in a wall with the necessary frame etc. after making necessary opening into a wall. They by name itself can be installed in the windows. It is better to get the air-conditioner installed through the authorized service provider/installer. Please contact Godrej Smartcare center for assistance.

• The life expectancy of a window & split type air-conditioners vary from installation to installation and depends upon many aspects. However, it is approximately 8-10 years.

• Proper preventive maintenance saves money by ensuring efficient operation and avoiding premature failure of parts. Inspect, clean and replace air-filters regularly. Get the air-conditioners serviced regularly through authorized service providers - Godrej SmartCare.
• If the air-conditioner has completed its warranty period, then it will be better to enter into the service contract.

• Godrej SmartCare are authorized service centers throughout the country. You may contact them by surfing Service Locator in your area. You may also contact any of our branch office for such services or just send e-mail to smartcare@godrej.com

• Coefficient of Performance, is the ratio of the power input and power output. For example a modern air-conditioner will provide 3kw of cooling for 1kw of electrical power input. Therefore the COP is expressed as 3.

• Yes, some do while others do not. Normally all refrigerants handled by reputed manufacturers and its service technicians will never be released to the atmosphere that could deplete the ozone layer. It is important to note that refrigerants alone are not responsible as many other chemicals cause global warming problems apart from Ozone depletion. Burning of fossil fuels causes problems on larger scale.

• Check that the remote is in a position that the infrared link can communicate with the indoor unit. If not then move it to a position where it can. When the indoor unit beeps each time you press a button on the remote, then it is in a good condition. Check the batteries - good quality batteries are required for the unit to function properly.

• Visit or Refer to our website: www.godrejsmartcare.com training page for information on Godrej SmartCare technical training
• Contact any of our branches regarding training on Compressor Operations & Service Techniques (COST), as well as for service manuals, pocket books, good servicing practices and various service publications.

• A complete charge of oil is 300 cc. It is necessary to make sure that adequate quantity of the oil remains in the compressor before installing it on to the refrigeration system.

• The chemical and physical effects that could happen because of such materials on refrigerants, oil and other compressor materials cannot be known unless proper careful laboratory tests are conducted. We do not recommend use of these types of additives. Further the same may result in violating the warranty terms issued on compressor.

• The appropriate method to establish compressor’s pumping is with use of a pair of pressure gages, an ammeter and the compressor specifications. Examine the operating discharge and suction pressure apart from current. Using the compressor specifications, compare these readings/observations at the actual pressures noticed during examination. Certainly due to variations in power - voltage and human errors while reading, inaccuracies in the measured current may be within +/- 12%. Do not check compressor operation by closing the suction valve to see the extent of minimum suction achieved as it may damage the compressor due to heat generated inside.
• Do not test compressor in open with ordinary air. Instead use dry Nitrogen and adopt correct testing procedure as recommended by Godrej.

• Normally this does not happen but in case this is noticed then it is suggested to reduce dimming of lights caused by drop in voltage while the compressor takes a start by adding a start capacitor to the electrical wiring. The capacitor will minimize the duration of the compressor being in locked rotor condition and thus minimize the period of bulbs dim to an acceptable level.

• Loosening or Vibration of parts fitted to system e.g. tubes, rear panels/sheet metal parts etc.
• Wearing out of mounting bushes
• Compressor noise as an in the air sound
• Outdoor/indoor fan (Aircons) or Air-cutting noise
• If all above is checked and you feel that the same is in OK condition then it may be that the refrigerator has gone into defrost mode.

At times, it is difficult to ascertain the origins of noise using the ear only. It may be useful to use noise tester i.e. dB meter for this purpose. In short, the compressor need not be considered as main noise creator. If it is heard only in IDUs or evaporators the noise could be due to running fan/blower motor or any object touching fan blade.

Possible causes could be:

• Over sized compressor for the heat load
• Undersized evaporator/suction line tubing
• The compressor shows a high to low internal leak
• In adequate power supply (voltage)
• Increase in operating pressures
• Faulty relay
• Faulty thermostat

Problem of overheating can occur when oil in a compressor is insufficient or heated to the point when it loses its ability to act as lubricant. If the heat is excessively high, chemically the oil breaks down. Other reasons for overheating due to discharge temperatures could be as under:

• Low suction pressure
• High condensing pressure

Low suction pressure is normally the result of pressure drop in suction line, light load operating conditions or choked/restricted evaporators. High condensing pressures can be taking place due to inadequate airflow around/through the condenser, undersized condenser, and overcharge of refrigerant or presence of non-condensable gases in the refrigeration system.

Pressure ratio to be high is a result of low suction pressure and/or high condensing pressure. If the compressor is operated within our specified limits, this condition will not arise.

For selecting a compressor the capacity is stated under specific test conditions like ISI (e.g. ISI conditions for air conditioning compressors is at 35°C ambient; 55°C condensing and 7.2°C evaporating temperatures. ISI conditions for refrigerator compressors is at 32°C ambient temperature; 55°C condensing and 23.3°C evaporating temperatures).

A capacity of a compressor will vary as per the load. To ascertain compressor capacity one needs to note the conditions he is operating at and state readings for comparison suitable for the specific compressor and refrigerant. This is not so easy and is not possible unless one has test lab as expected for standards.

Godrej recommended start devices should be used on any compressor old type or new type. We have tested and approved the suitable start devices, list of which is given below.

At Godrej, we do not permit such direct replacement of refrigerant; especially when the original compressor/ refrigeration system was designed for R-12 and a technician want to charge R-134a into it. Instead refer to Godrej Training Manual TM-1005 wherein retrofitting is explained but the process is expensive and calls for extra care.

We do not permit, because

• It needs change of lubricating oil from mineral oil to Poly-ol Ester oil.
• The residuals of mineral oil may contaminate the system, which at a later date can damage the compressor.
• The capillary tube and even condenser may need change.
• Over & above cleanliness is of utmost importance while working with POE oils & R-134a refrigerant.

We do not sell the spare-parts of compressors, because their precise use with the help of necessary machinery and cleanliness is not easily available at most repairs shops. If these parts fail, the same usually damage the compressor, more which finally affect on compressor’s heat removal capacity, efficiency and/or additional component failures. Precisely for these reasons we supply new & repaired compressors.

A refrigeration compressor could be checked as per below given procedure

• Connect the Nitrogen cylinder to the process tube of compressor using a double stage pressure regulator.
• Connect the discharge side of the compressor to a receiver or a condenser coil of appropriate capacity.
• To the other end of the receiver or condenser coil, connect a pressure gauge having a range of 0 to 300 psig.
• After connecting, check for leakage at all joints.
• Supply Nitrogen gas at a constant pressure of 20 psig in the process tube of the compressor.
• Start the compressor & run it for a few seconds to build up a head pressure of approximately 125 / 150 psig (Refrigerator / Air-conditioner compressor). On attaining the specified head pressure, stop the compressor.
• Wait for a minute & check for drop in head pressure. It should be within the specified limit of 30 / 40 psig (Refrigerator / Air-conditioner).
• In case the drop is more than the specified limit, the compressor is having pumping defect, or else the compressor is okay.

Most refrigerants have different

• CFC 12 & HC refrigeration systems Molecular Sieve size XH 5 10 grams
• HFC 134a system - Molecular Sieve size XH 7 10 grams
• During servicing it is better to fit a drier/filter of higher grammage

Measure the resistance of windings as under.

• Insert black test lead into Common Terminal of multimeter/ohm meter & red test lead into ‘W’ Terminal.
• Set the function switch to the Ohm range
• Connect the test leads to the No.1 terminal &No.2 terminal of the compressor & note the value.
• Connect the test leads to the No.1 terminal & No.3 terminal of the compressor & note the value.
• Connect the test leads to the No.2 terminal & No.3 terminal of the compressor ¬e the value.
• Now you are ready to identify the compressor terminal sequence:
• Highest Reading indicates the total of Run + Start winding resistance
• 2nd Highest Reading indicates the Start winding
• Lowest Reading indicates the Run winding

Upon this you are now able to locate S, C, R terminals of compressor